LADAKH, A SPIRITUAL EXPERIENCE
 It seemed like ages since my last trip to the fascinating lands of Uttarakhand last August (2007). I and my group friends we were itching on to head someplace even more exiting. After lots of discussions and brain-storming sessions we finally agreed to visit Ladakh during the month of August 2008.

Brief Information about Ladakh
 Ladakh is sandwiched between two of the world's mightiest mountain ranges, the Karakoram in the north and the Great Himalaya in the south. Ladakh valley is further traversed by two parallel chains of the Ladakh Range and the Zanskar Range. Geological data suggest Ladakh to be formed a few million years ago with its unique landscape sculpted into the present form due to tectonic upheavals in its structure which have been modified over the millennia by the process of erosion due to wind and water. The present high-altitude desert located in the rain shadow region of the Himalayas was once covered by an extensive lake system, the vestiges of which still exist on its south-east plateaus of Rupshu and Chushul, in the drainage basins or lakes of Tso-Moriri, Tso-Kar and Pangong-Tso. However main source of water is derived from snowfall in winter. Leh, the capital city of Ladakh covers an area of 45110 Sq Km making it the largest district in the country in terms of area.
 
The trip to Ladakh requires serious pre-planning in terns of clothes, medications, transport and of course available holidays if you are from the service industry. Our initial plan was to reach Srinagar and drive on from there to Leh covering places which would give us ample time to acclimatize towards the scaling landscapes of Ladakh and avoid the sorry effects of altitude sickness. The plan however had to be discarded last moment due to non resolving political situation in Kashmir valley and we were forced to take a last moment direct flight to Leh from Mumbai via Delhi

DAY 1
I along with my 8 other friends comprising of Sudhir, Ashwin, Rishikesh, Kalyani, Anagha, Mehul, Hiral and Bhushan gathered at the Mumbai domestic airport at around 9:30 pm to board our Delhi flight scheduled at 11.15. The flight was delayed and we reached Delhi domestic airport around 1.30. After collecting our luggage we spent almost 2- 3hours at the waiting room to finally board our Leh flight at around 6 am. This flight trip is particularly breathtaking as it scales over the gorgeous Himalayas. The magnificent view of snow capped peaks, endless channels of captivating cliffs, streams running through gorges, amazing cloud formations are things words fail to describe and hence I would recommend everyone who takes this flight to adamantly request for a window seat. Our plane finally descended over the dusty lands of Leh to arrive at Kushok Bakula Airport located 4km from the city of Leh. Kushok Bakula Airport (34°8'33"N   77°33'20") named after most venerable Kushok Bakula Rinpoche; architect of modern Ladakh is a military airport carrying out civilian duties. Though the airport is well maintained, due to increasing flux of tourist a need for a separate commercial airport seems justified.  After collecting our baggage we boarded our pre arranged transport vehicles waiting outside the airport and headed to our hotel. As we checked in we were already feeling the primary effects of altitude sickness (heaviness in the head, dizziness) which I may explicitly put were compounded due to lack of sleep the previous night.  Leh (34°10'12"N   77°34'47"E) situated at an altitude of 3500m with its thin atmospheric oxygen levels requires strict acclimatization for all tourist, especially those who visit from low altitude places like Mumbai. Acclimatization must be taken seriously as there have been common occurrences of hospitalizations and even deaths where people have ignored this fact. As per our itinerary we were supposed to rest entirely on the present day and start our journey tomorrow. We did not need any further invitation to hit the bed and within no time we all were fast asleep. We woke up fresh almost late evening when the temperatures had dropped down considerably. After having tea and coffee we had a light jam session with guitar. We met our tour guide late night after dinner who informed us about our entire trip setup. Before going to sleep we packed for our first day’s trip to Ladakh and finally hit the bed with anxiety and excitement.

DAY 2
We rose up early morning fresh from the hangovers of previous days altitude induced physical errors and were all geared up to start our wonderful journey. Our next 24 hours schedule required us to explore the Leh-Lamayuru stretch on the Leh-Kargil-Batalik highway covering points like Hall of fame, Magnetic Hill, Pattharsahib Gurudwara, Likir Monastery and Lamyuru Monastery before finally retiring at Ule. We carried 2 day luggage along with our cameras, tripods, guitar etc and stomped into our bus all set to commence the journey. Our first stop was at the Hall of fame Museum.

Hall of Fame Museum (34°8'20"N   77°32'28"E)
The Hall of Fame is a superb museum developed by the Great Indian Army a few kilometers from Leh on the Leh-Kargil highway. The museum displays excellent memorabilia of Indian army battle operations with illustrations, images and weapons. The museum also presents heart-touching biographies of selfless passionate war heroes with utmost love for India which makes this place a must visit for each one of us Indians who take their freedom for granted. The museum also displays weapons seized from enemy forces of Pakistan along with soldier dairies, Id cards from war sites. The upper section of the museum is solely dedicated to heroes of Siachen. The section displays the special mufti layered shoes used by the Indian forces at Siachen to prevent frost bites. Special imported attires worn by the Siachen heroes to tackle extreme temperature conditions are also displayed along with snow scaling instruments and the dietary supplements required by soldiers to tackle harsh inhabitable conditions at the highest battlefield on earth. It was really amazing to know some of the special methods required to survive at Siachen. Information like heating and cooking food by small tablets of Hexamycin to tackle extreme temperatures ranging from -30 to -50 degrees just sends a chill down your spine. A board on one corner reads that about 97% of soldiers martyr at Siachen due to frost bites and inhabitable atmospheric conditions. The entire experience was highly touching and one could do nothing less than feel proud to be an Indian citizen guarded by such a courageous army.

After a heart touching experience at the museum we moved on towards Pattharsahib Gurudwara; our next tourist spot.

Gurudwara Patthar Sahib (34°11'8"N   77°23'56"E)

The Gurudwara was our second stop point on the Leh-Lamayuru Road. It is believed that Patthar sahib is the auspicious place where Guru Gobind Singh, the 10th guru of the Sikhs, had spent time meditating in the 17th century. The Gurudwara is well maintained and offers free tea to its visitors.

Magnetic Hill (34°11'3"N   77°21'37"E)

The Magnetic Hill located about 30 km from Leh on the Leh-Kargil-Batalik Highway was our third stop. The place can be identified by a official billboard put up by the local administration. The hill is so named because of the Magnetic phenomenon noted by vehicles who observe that the vehicle moves against gravity even on shut engines. The administration has even marked a rectangle on the road to specify to the visitors the exact spot to place their vehicles and experience the phenomenon. If this wasn't enough to tackle your wits, the locals inform that apart from vehicles even choppers and aircrafts who come in vicinity of the hills magnetic field experience jerks and have to fly at higher speeds to avoid the magnetic impact.  It is not uncommon to hear local tourist drivers inform that even the Indian Air Force pilots steer clear of the Magnetic Hill. Scientist who have evaluated the area dismiss the phenomenon specifying it as an act of optical illusion where the presumed incline for against gravity pull-effect is a slope in broader sense of the particular landscape. Optical illusion or not the phenomenon is worth experiencing.

We proceeded on from Magnetic Hill towards Likir Gonpa. On our way we stopped over to see the confluence point of the rivers, Indus and Zanskar, also known as “Sangam” (34°9’55” N 77°19’53” E). Due to the exciting landscapes and cool atmosphere I traveled most of this stretch on top of our bus.

Likir Gonpa (34°17'35"N   77°12'53"E)

Likir Gonpa is located west of Leh at a distance of 62 kms. The name Likir means "The Naga - Encircled". Likir Gonpa is so named as it stands surrounded by the bodies of the two great serpent spirits, the Naga-rajas, Nanda and Taksako. Likir Gonpa was founded in the later half of the 11th century, around the year 1605. It belongs to the Yellow Hat Sect, founded by Tsongkhapa. It consists of a number of shrines inside its complex. Presently, it serves as the residence of approximately 120 Buddhist monks. The monastery also has a school, in which almost thirty students study. In the 15th century, Likir Gonpa came under the influence of Lodos Sangphu, a disciple of Khasdubje, who made sincere efforts towards the prosperity of Likir Gonpa. The monastery was brought into the order of the great Lama Tsongkhapa and up till present times the ritual and observances of the three basic Pratimoksa disciplines, which from the basic of Buddhist teachings, are preserved. There are many blessed shrines in this monastery and there resides a protective deity wearing golden armor. Every year from the 27th to 29th of 12th Tibetan month the votive offerings known as Dosmochey are assembled and sacred dances are performed. The successive reincarnations of Naris Rinpoche act as the incumbents of the monastery. There are two Dukhangs (assembly halls) inside the monastery, one of them relatively new. The older one is on the right of the central courtyard of the monastery and comprises of six rows of seats for the lamas. Inside this Dukhang are the statues of Bodhisattva (Lord of All He Surveys), Amitabha (Buddha of the West), Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha), Maitreya (the Future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion) and Tsong-kha-pa (Founder of the yellow-hat sect). On exiting the Dukhang, we come across a new Dukhang, diagonally  the courtyard's entrance which hosts the main image of Avalokitesvara, with 1000 arms and 11 heads. The Gonpa is also famous for its education in filed of Tibetan Medicine and Astrology.

From Likir Gonpa we proceeded towards Uley (34°18'48"N   77°7'15"E) where we were supposed to accommodate for the night. Since it was noon we decided to have our lunch there before proceeding to Lamayuru. The road to Lamayuru is very beautiful and passes through the landscape popularly known as Moonland (34°17'28"N   76°47'40") as it resembles the surface of the moon with its crusty crater like layout. The landscape has a scenic view with highly uneven surface covered with vast expanse of crimson yellow soil which is regarded as the medicinal "Multani Mitti" by many. The view of the nearby Lamayuru Gonpa adds to the beauty of this unusual landscape.

Lamayuru Gonpa (34°16'57"N   76°46'25"E)

Lamayuru Gonpa is located 127 kms west of Leh on a steep rock mountain. The monastery overlooks the interesting landscape of Moonland. Lamayuru Monastery belongs to the Red-Hat sect of Buddhism and houses approximately 150 Buddhist monks.. History informs that during the 11th century the place was visited by the divine saint Naropa. The cave where he resided and meditated can still be viewed in present times.. He was followed by Rinchen Zangpo, the Translator who built many temples and stupas and hence the teaching of the Kadampa School came to flourish greatly there. There after, for many years the monastery was administered by the Zhwa-mar-pa (Red Hats), after which the Dharmaraja Jamyang Namgial offered it to Chosje Danma, whom he had invited to Ladakh. The rituals and observances of the Digung Kargyud School were introduced and the monastery received the name of Yungdrung Tharpaling. The successive reincarnation of Skyabsje Toldan Rinpoche acts as the incumbents of the monastery. There is a custum whereby each year on the 17th & 18th of the 5th Tibetan month the festival of the so-called (Yuru Kabgyad) is held during which dances are performed. In this monastery there are various shrines to be seen, including Thangkas and wall paintings. At the outset, the Lamayuru Monastery consisted of five buildings, out of which only the central one exists today. Today, the Lamayuru Monastery is served by the successive reincarnations of Skyabsje Toldan Rinpoche.

After wrapping up our visit to the Gonpa we headed back towards Uley village. Our resort camp had accommodation tents made from mud which was very comfortable. The entire resort had good water facilities and clean toilets. The resort location provided excellent view of the sky and we all tried our hands at night-photography trying to capture stars and moon in various moods. At around 10:00 pm we hit the bed almost drained with the day’s journey.

DAY 3
Next morning we rose up with high excitement as this was the day we went white water rafting. We quickly had our breakfast, clicked some group photos and were off again on the road by 9:00 am. We initially paid a short visit to Alchi Gonpa on our way before we went to the rafting location.

Alchi Gonpa (34°13'25"N   77°10'31"E)

Alchi Gonpa situated 67 kms west of Leh is one of the largest and most famous monastery founded by Rinchen Zangpo, Translator, in 1000 AD. The sacred temples, to be seen there include the Principal one of the Rinchen Lhakhang, at Lotsa Lhakhang, the Jamyang Lhakhang (Manjusri temple) and the Sumtsag Lhakhang. The main image is that of Vairocana but there can also been seen the five Buddha families together with their attendant deities. References found about Alchi from various biographies of Rinchen Zangpo make a mention about thirty-two sculptors and wood carvers the translator brought from Kashmir to build the temples The paintings found are not like the Tibetan style but rather executive depicting influence of Indian tradition. The paintings however have suffered the ordeals of time and have deteriorated considerably. Apart from individual sculptural brilliance, Alchi does not have much to offer in terms of landscape views.
We clicked a few snaps of the paintings and quickly made our way back to the bus as an exciting water rafting session awaited us. We reached the rafting spot on the Indus banks and geared up in the rafting attire provided by our guide. We had a briefing session about the techniques to be employed for raft movement and certain important synchronization signals. Our 24kms rafting stretch scaled through the Indus river up to the confluence point of Zanskar-Indus (34°9'55"N   77°19'53"E) from where we moved westward again along the Indus to the final point of destination at Nimmo (34°11'36"N   77°20'10"E). The entire experience was enthralling. At about a distance of 10 kms me along with some of my friends took a dip in the Indus waters and swam alongside the raft. After an arduous and tiring session of almost 2 hours we reached Nimmo half shivering. After pulling the raft on shore, we quickly moved towards our bus for change of clothes and then proceeded for lunch. At around 4pm we left Nimmo and headed towards Leh. We reached Leh around 5 pm. Back at our hotel I had a enjoyable hot shower which relaxed my very aching muscles after the rigors of rafting. That evening we explored Leh market on brief basis but returned quickly to have a good sleep for the next days tiring journey to Nubra valley

DAY 4
It was a bit difficult to rise early this morning as our bodies were recuperating from the rigors of previous days rafting. However we knew we had to respect time for the long journey to Nubra valley that lay ahead. After a quick breakfast we boarded our bus and proceeded towards Nubra valley which requires traversing over the great Khardung La at 18000 odd feet. The road from Leh towards Khardung La is filled with imminent curves which can be seen running from top to bottom scaling the mountain. Reaching Nubra Valley from Leh over the Khardung La requires you to cross two check points before and after the mighty pass. We reach the first checkpoint of Khardung La (La is a Tibetan word for Pass) known as South Pullu (34°14'57"N   77°37'10"E) 24 km from the actual pass. Tourist vehicles have to get their permit checked here before moving ahead. For individuals it is important to know that vehicles are allowed only in one direction at a time, from 9am - 1pm in the Leh – Khardung La Direction, and from 1 pm - 5 pm in the Nubra – Khardung La - Leh direction. Sometimes it is one direction one day and the other direction the next day. Inner line permits are required to reach Khardung-la. These can be procured at the DC's office in Leh. Make sure to have photocopies of your permits, as each checkpoint needs a copy to be deposited with them. The road from South Pullu towards Khardung La is highly curvy but well paved till you reach Khardung La.

Khardung La (34°12'31"N   77°37'8"E) (also spelt as "Khardong La")

Khardung La, located about 39km from Leh, is situated at an altitude of 5602 m (18380 ft).  Built in 1976, it was opened to motor vehicles in 1988. Khardung la is believed to be the highest motorable pass in the world. However recent GPS tracking and altitude measuring equipment have shown its height to be 5359 m or little above 17600 ft which makes the claim arguable  and is considered as the  second highest motorable pass after Marsimik La (34°5'39"N   78°37'9"E) at 5582m in the Indian Karakoram, north east to Khardung La. The readings have not been officially accepted as Marsimik La is not motorable by common vehicles easily. The name Khardung implies as "land of black gravel" and the pass serves as a gateway to the Karakoram. Regarded as an important trade route to Central Asia in ancient times, Khardung La is now heavily used by the Great Indian Army to move supplies to its border and especially Siachen, considered as the highest battlefield on earth. Temperatures can get extremely cold at Khardung La. However that does not stop you one bit to enjoy the magnificent scenery it provides as one can see all the way south over the Indus valley to the seemingly endless peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range.  The side overlooking the Nubra valley is very beautiful more so the glacier that stands tall and is quite intimidating. Apart from this, one can view the captivating peaks of Karakoram ranges in the north while the south end provides enthralling views of rocky Mountains.

As we proceed from Khardung La towards the Nubra valley we hit the second checkpoint known as North Pullu (34°19'46"N   77°38'37"E). The 15km stretch road is mostly composed of loose gravel, rocks, dirt and occasional patches of snow melt. From North Pullu the roads towards Nubra valley are good with occasional pits which can be expected due to heavy movement of army vehicles. The road takes you throughout renditions of gray landscapes and clear blue skies as you arrive at Khardong (34°24'15"N   77°39'55"E) which is the first village in the Nubra valley.

The name Nubra is applied to the region comprising the valley of the river Nubra (34°42'8"N   77°33'16"E) and that of the Shyok (35°4'50"N   77°46'29"E , source), both above and below their confluence (34°35'52"N   77°35'15"E), where they meander in many shifting channels over a broad sandy plain, before flowing off to the north-west to join the Indus in Baltistan. The Shyok and Nubra rivers drain the east and west sides of the Saser sub-range of Karakoram. Nubra valley also popularly known as Ldomra or the valley of flowers lies at average altitude of 10,000 feet above sea level. The climate, of the areas being soft, soil is much fertile and the vegetation of the area is comparatively thicker than those of the other areas of Ladakh. Shrubs, bushes and trees grow in abundance wherever there is any source of water. 

From the village of Khardong the road proceeds alongside the Shyok River and the view is absolutely magnificent which compels you to stop and take notice. We clicked ample photographs of the Shyok landscape we moved ahead. After an hours drive we approached the main village of Deskit (34°33'6"N   77°32'50"E), which has a bazaar comprising of single line of shops and a Gonpa situated on a rocky spur above the village which we were scheduled to visit on our return journey next day. Deskit is the sub-division headquarters of Nubra. Since the journey from Leh was extremely tiring due to dusty roads and hot climate we did not stop at Deskit market and headed straight towards our accommodation at "Nubra organic retreat" located at Hundar. Nubra organic retreat is a well kept place with a superb cultivated garden which gives you a feel of oasis within the cold dry desert of Hundar. I generally do not review hotels but I may make a exception here and would recommend this place to everyone who visits the Nubra valley. After settling in our cozy tents and having snacks we proceeded towards Hundar sand dunes to enjoy ride on a Bactrian camel

Hundar (34°35'22"N   77°27'57"E)

The Hundar sand dunes can be described as a masterpiece creation of nature. Located amidst rocky terrain of Ladakh, this amazing land with rolling dunes of crystal white sand reflecting vivid colours from different aspects of sun and moon light are highly enchanting. We visited an hour before sunset and the view was truly majestic. As we alighted from our bus we got the first glimpse of the Bactrian camel or simply a camel with two humps. The Bactrian camels represent a very small population of Ladakh fauna. These animals were used for goods transport on the Central Asian trade route from old times to very recent past about 60 years. At present times they are tourist attraction serving rides in the cold desert.  The rates are very cheap and you can get a 15 minutes ride for 150 INR and a 30 minute ride for 250-300 INR. However the down point is that you cannot drive the camel but are shown around the place by your camel guide. Anyhow after my back breaking experience of camel rides on my previous journey to Jaisalmer, 15 minute ride was enough for me. The Bactrian camel ride is more comfortable than the common camel because of the extra hump he has and provided you sit in between the two humps which provide some support to your back. After the ride we decide to explore this superb area and parted ways to enjoy some solitude amongst this vast desert. I moved myself towards a sand cliff which overlooked two small water ponds as some of my friends were having the time of their lives jumping and sliding in the crystal clear sands. As the sun set on Hundar the surroundings cast a haunting spell over the entire land which forced you to just lie down and gaze on and on. Finally around 7:00 pm we unwillingly boarded our bus and headed back to our resort. We had a great dinner ready for us which we gobbled up within no time and headed back to our tents for a good night sleep.

DAY 5
Today’s program was not that hectic. We had to visit Deskit monastery before we headed back to Leh. We woke up a bit late than usual and spent considerable amount of time clicking some beautiful flowers around the camp. After having our breakfast we boarded our bus and headed of to Deskit Gonpa

Deskit Gonpa (34°32'28"N   77°33'37"E)

The Deskit Gonpa dates back to 14th century (1420 AD) and belongs to Tsongkhapa order. It was built by Changzem Tserab Zangpo, a disciple of Tsong-kha-pa.  At the heart of Deskit Monastery is an elevated cupola, which stands adorned with a beautiful fresco that illustrates the Tashilhunpo Gonpa of Tibet. There are a number of shrines inside the monastery's complex, like Kangyu-lang, Tsangyu-lang, etc. Also, hundreds of Mongolian and Tibetan texts have found their storehouse inside these temples. History informs that a Mongol demon who was a fierce enemy of Buddhism was persecuted near the Gonpa. Apparently the demons body turned out to be indestructible which came back to life over and over again and created menace. Hence the annihilated body was transferred to the Gonpa and kept locked under strict supervision. It is still believed that the demons wrinkled head and hand are present in the dark claustrophobic channels of the Gonpa secured with Holy Scriptures and statues of Buddha. Deskit Gonpa assumes a commanding scenic view point at the foot hills of Karakoram ranges up above Tegar and Sumoor village, amidst plenty of water and high vegetation.

After covering Deskit Gonpa we headed straight towards Leh with an intermittent stop at Khardung La for some photography. We collected souvenirs from the military souvenir shop at Ladakh for people back home. The weather toady at Khardung La was quite pleasant and we were lucky enough to find the military personal there in similar moods who allowed us to photograph ourselves with them and also with some of their majestic vehicles which was quite novel (Clicking photographs of military vehicles without permission is not allowed). We reached Leh around 4:00 pm as the journey back proved to be less time consuming. We took this opportunity to explore Leh market which sells some pretty useful and artistic stuff. One can mostly come across vivid piece of stone jewelry with antique designs and studded gemstones ranging from onyx, sapphire, jade and ruby to emerald. The prices vary from shop to shop with extreme differences and hence bargaining is a must. Leh also has its share of a Flea market like Goa where you can find trekking bags, pullovers, T shirts etc. stuff mostly arrived from Delhi. However you can pick up some fancy cool stuff for throw away prices to impress people back home, especially the women folk. (Guys hope you are listening...). We evaluated scaled and raided the market with similar precision as we did with other places of interest on our trio and the shopping experience was good, especially for myself as I have a deep interest for gemstones. We got back to our hotel at around 9:00 pm for dinner and went back to our rooms to pack for the next day’s journey to TsoMoriri. After packing we had a small group meeting along with some guitar jam sessions before we hit the bed in anticipation of an exciting journey that awaited us next day.

DAY 6
I was highly excited toady as we had to visit TsoMoriri (or Moriri lake as Tso is a Tibetan word for lake). Ever since I became passionate about traveling, Tso Moriri visit has been my top priority not only due to its strategic importance as one of the northernmost tip of my great country India but more so of the challenging climatic conditions it breeds in  and the enthralling grandeur this lake posses. With excitement and great expectations we boarded our carriage and marched on a journey which today I can only describe as magical. Reaching Tso Moriri requires a drive through the Leh-Manali highway upto Upshi alongside the Indus River. From here there are two routes to approach Tso Moriri, one which carries along the river and the other which diverges towards Taglang La, both converging at a commonly at Sumdo in Puga valley few kilometers before TsoMoriri.  We took the route carrying up the Indus river which leads through a gorge between Ladakh and Zanskar ranges and offers scenic view of some captivating landscapes, chocolate ice-cream like snow peaks, fascinating blue skies with enchanting cloud formations; the description endless. We traversed this route by sitting on luggage carrier (believe me all of us were up there except our driver (obviously) and I do recommend everyone who takes this route to do so.) atop our bus filling the air with constant clicks of our cameras.  The magical ride took a halt at Chumathang village (33°21’34”N   78°20’40”E) which has hot springs where we had our lunch. About 17 kms ahead of Chumathang lies Mahe (33°16'1"N   78°28'19"E) which is a check point where visitors have to register their journey details to Tsomoriri. The route from here crosses itself over from the north to the south bank of Indus river through a small bridge and follows alongside the Puga stream up to Sumdo (33°14'0"N   78°22'6"E) to join its sister route from Taglang La.  The road ahead follows a silent path often disturbed by vicinity of the extremely shy but playful Himalayan Marmot ( locally known as Phya) to reach the banks of Kiagar Tso (Thadsangkaru Tso) which we all unknowingly presumed to be TsoMoriri as our hearts plunged into ecstasy with the first sight of Kiagar Tso.

Kiagar Tso (33°6'24"N   78°18'11"E)

Kiagar Tso, also known as Thadsangkaru Tso, is a brackish water lake located 10-12 kms before TsoMoriri. Kiagar Tso itself is highly mesmerizing and is surrounded by some captivating landscape. We made a brief stop here to alight from the top of our bus and head back in as it was getting cold. I personally liked Kiagar Tso as its waters reflect varied colours and wished I had a bit more time to explore its beauty. Nevertheless we carried on and finally reached Tso Moriri at about 4pm.

Tso Moriri (32°55'58"N   78°18'36"E)

Tsomoriri located at a distance of 240km from Leh in south-eastern sector of Ladakh is spread over an area of ca.120 km² of the Rupshu Desert in the Changthang (literally meaning, northern plains) region. This high altitude brackish lake is situated at about 4,650m above mean sea level, and remains frozen in winter. The lake which contains large mineral deposits is fed by springs and snow melt and has a maximum depth of 40m. On the north and east sides, the lake is bounded by rolling hills of the Tibetan cold desert. The western side is bordered by steeper peaks exceeding 5,500 m. The Pare Chu River, which originates about 40 km upstream, flows along the southern side. Between Tsomoriri in the north, and the Pare Chu in the south, lies the Nuro Sumdo wetland, covering an area of ca.20 km². The area is characterized by an arid, cold desert climate. The summer temperature ranges from 0° to 30°C, falling to between -10° and -40°C in winter. Caragana and Astragalus species characterize the steppe avifaunal survey of Tsomoriri Lake and adjoining Nuro Sumdo Wetland. Bar-headed Geese (Anser indicus) and Black-necked Crane (Grus nigricollis) flock to the lakeside for breeding during the summer months.  Tsomoriri, one of the highest lakes in the world, is believed to be the most important breeding locality for waterfowl in Ladakh. Tsomoriri has been designated as a Ramsar Site in November 2002 by WWF.

TsoMoriri is simply breath taking. I have done some touring in my short life and seen some serious landscapes, lakes and rivers but TsoMoriri ranks right up there at the top. The moment you touch the lake bed and march forwards you are in a different realm. The mind ceases to believe the truthful experience of blissful beauty which is strictly described in fictional writings. I may be a bit overboard here but so be it. The sight of grazing horses, sailing ducks, flocks and flocks of birds flying up and down are just mesmerizing. The lake compels you to throw away your camera, lie down and absorb everything this piece of nature throws at you. Tsomoriri was the only location where everyone from our group had mostly scattered albeit unknowingly spellbound by the lakes grandeur.

Korzok village (32°57'57"N   78°15'40"E)

The only (arguably) settlement for tourist visiting the magnificent TsoMoriri is a nomadic camp at Korzok village located 2kms from the lake bed. Korzok village (4,572m) is situated on the South West Bank of Tsomoriri. Korzok Gonpa and its inhabitants the nomads (Changpas) are most outstanding features of this lake.  Korzok Gonpa is considered a must visit. However we did not get a chance to do so due to time constraints. The few barley fields at Korzok must be among the highest cultivation in the world. The nomadic camp utility has basic but good facilities. Accommodation consists of tents with twin beds. Toilets are common but clean. Staying here was an enthralling experience. At nights the temperature drops down considerably, but if the strong hearts decide to venture out of the cozy tents they can experience a fascinating night sky. The night with its eerie calm, cold winds and a larger than ever moon add to the décor of the surroundings making one feel the presence of heaven.

DAY 7
Next morning we rose up pretty early around 6:00 am although it seemed like 8:00 am due to early sunlight at this high altitude places. After having our breakfast which comprised of eggs (for me), pancakes, tea and coffee, we proceeded on our itinerary en-route Puga, Tsokar (lake) Taglang La to finally reach Leh. TsoMoriri- Tsokar route, about 45km, is predominantly rich in sulphur.  The route carries forward from Sumdo alongside the once operational sulphur mines over the Polokongka-la (33° 15' 0 N 78° 12' 0 E) at 5,030 m to reach the twin lakes of  Startsapuk-Tso (33°15'7"N   78°2'28"E , fresh water lake) and finally Tso-kar (salt water).  (Note: We did not visit Startsapuk-Tso but passed alongside it)

Tso Kar (33°18'43"N   77°59'37"E)

Tso Kar is a salt water lake situated in the Rupsa Valley. Located about 240 km south-east of Leh at an altitude of 4485m, this brackish lake is about 28 km long and 8 km wide.  The lake waters have no outlet leading to heavy salt deposition around its bed making resulting in brackish water. Tsokar hence is also known as the "White lake". The salt derived from its banks is sold all over Ladakh and Kashmir by the local nomads (Rupsu Chang). The area alongside this lake is inhabited by nomadic people popularly known as Khampas. Khampas are mostly employed in rearing of goats, cows and yaks. Tsokar plays host every year to one couple of black-neck-cranes (Grus nigricoilis) who unfailingly visit the lake banks to lay eggs. Black-neck cranes being endangered (IUCN red list) species we were really privileged to spot them in wild during our brief visit to Tsokar.

We were unable to spend much time at Tsokar due to overcast weather. A gaze at the lake layout makes you however believe that on a bright sunny day Tsokar must be a photographers dream. The lake bed during our visit was brittle which prevented us to take close up shots of the cranes. With mixed feelings we climbed back to our bus and proceeded towards Taglang La. The road ahead from Tsokar continues west up to Debring (33°25'35"N   77°51'5"E) which is a Changpa camping site. From here we are required to move north and follow a curvy bend journey towards Taglang La.

Taglang La (33°30'21"N   77°46'14"E)

Taglang La situated at an elevation of 5359m is considered the second highest motorable pass in India. Taglang La overlooks the Zanskar range and offers scenic beauty of captivating landscapes amalgamated with snow clad mountains with vibrant colours. Taglang La also finds it mention in the record books for being the highest crane liftoff point for motion picture shooting. The climax scene of the movie Lakshya was shot in this area where the actor is seen hoisting the Indian flag after conquering Tiger Hill.

The journey ahead from Taglang La towards Leh passes through the beautiful village of Rumtse (33°37'52"N   77°44'56"E) to join the Leh- Manali Highway. On our journey back to Leh we stopped over to visit Shey Palace

Shey Palace (34°4'33"N   77°38'7"E)

Shey Palace is located at Shey town of Ladakh about 15km from Leh at an average elevation of 3415m. The palace age is determined to be around 500 odd years. Shey palace was built by King Deldan Namgial (1620 - 1640) about the beginning of 17th century AD. Shey palace posses the largest golden Buddha statue in Ladakh and is exclusive.  Records inform that the 3-storeyed statue of Buddha Shakyamuni made of copper guilt was installed by King Deldan Namgial in memory of his father Singay Namgial. However there is a slight misinformation about the exact king who built this palace. Certain records credit the monument to King Lhachen Palgyigon who ruled Ladakh about 550 years ago. Shey palace enchants you from its very entrance where one can find a cluster of bright white stupas scattered around a grainy sandy landscape which gives you a retro feeling. The word Stupa is a rendition of Sanskrit which means “pile" as in a heap that gradually accumulates when each visitor leaves a small stone as a memento. The palace itself is beautiful but more so is the panoramic view it offers from its highest point.

I was nearly dark when we left Shey Palace and headed towards our hotel at Leh. The past two days were highly absorbing and gave me a sense of immense satisfaction in terms of expectation I had carried about this trip. We reached our hotel at around 7:30 pm. After taking a quick shower we proceeded for dinner. Before hitting our beds we packed our stuff for the next 2 days visit to Pangong Tso.

DAY 8
This morning I rose up the accustomed hustle bustle of taking quick shower, packing my bags and getting ready to board my bus for the itinerary. However due to the fulfilling experience of Tso Moriri, I was highly relaxed with the thought that nothing more exciting awaits me. It was a journey to Pangong Tso which is highly visited by tourist and I expected it to be like any other tourist spots I had visited in my recent past, but how wrong was I ! We started our journey to Pangong as early as possible which was the last destination of our tour. Leh to Pangong Tso is a 5 hour drive on a rough and dramatic mountain road with imminent curves and breathtaking landscapes. The road passes through picturesque villages of Shey (34°4'33"N   77°38'7"E), Thiksey (34°3'22"N   77°40'0"E) to reach Karu (33°54'50"N   77°44'38"E). From Karu the road turns north along the side-valley of Chimre (33°57'55"N   77°47'52"E) and proceeds over the Chang La (5290m), arguably the third highest motorable pass in the world.

Chang La (34°3'3"N   77°55'49"E)

Chang La located at an altitude of 5425m (arguable) is considered as the third highest motorable pass in the world. However recent GPS maps and Tracking equipment have shown its altitude somewhere around 5290m though the official acceptance is pending. Chang La derives its name from a sadhu or holy man named Changla Baba. A temple dedicated to the sadhu can be seen here. Military personal at Changla are jolly and one can breathe excitement after meeting them. Soldiers greet you with utter happiness and also offer free hot tea for tourists which in itself show the great hospitality of Indian army. The nomadic inhabitants of this region are collectively called as Changpa's.  Changla offers breathtaking view of the Zanskar range and it is recommended to spend some time here before moving ahead.

The route carries forward from Changla towards Tangtse (34°1'56"N   78°10'12"E). From Tangtse the road for Pangong Tso continues eastwards and takes you to Lukung(34°0'20"N   78°24'8"E ) which is situated at the western shore of Pangong lake and is the first village that can be accessed from the Indian side on Pangong Tso. The route from the western point of Lukung extends 8km up ahead towards Spangmik which is the last point allowed for tourists to visit on the Indian side. Due to strategic reasons a special permit is required to visit the lake. While Indian nationals can obtain individual permits, others must have group permits (with a minimum of four persons) accompanied by an accredited guide. Permits can be obtained from the tourist office in Leh for a small fee. For security reasons, India does not permit boating at Pangong Tso.

Pangong Tso (33°48'21"N   78°37'2"E)

Pangong, a salt water lake, is situated at a elevation of 4267m (14,000ft) in the eastern sector of Ladakh at a distance of 154km from Leh. Pangong lake is considered to be a remnant from the ice age, probably formed by the dead ice masses left behind. Surprisingly, the lake bed completely freezes in winter in spite of it being brackish in nature.  Pangong descriptively is a long (130kms) but narrow (hardly 6 to 7 kms at its widest point) basin of inland drainage which is bisected by the international border between India and China (Tibet, almost 2/3rd of the lake is in China). Spangmik (33°54'26"N   78°27'29"E ) is the farthest point up to which foreigners are permitted to visit which is located about 8 kms along the southern shore from the head of the lake. The magnificent mountains of Chang-Chenmo ranges located north of Spangmik appear highly spectacular more so ever their reflections in the crystalline blue waters of Pangong take your breath away. Spangmik is overlooked by glaciers and many snow-capped peaks of the Pangong range which add vibrancy to the overall setup of Pangong Tso. Spangmik and a scattering of other tiny villages along the lake's southern shore are the summer homes of a scanty population of Chang-pa, the nomadic herdsmen of Tibet and southeast Ladakh. The Pangong Chang-pa cultivates sparse crops of barley and peas in summer. Pangong is in the process of being identified under the Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance. This will be the first trans-boundary wetland in South Asia under the convention.

Tourist -accommodation at Pangong consists of a sole lodging with bare basic facilities which did not include tap water during our stay. Apart from an old couple from Mysore we were the only group staying at the facility which indicates that tourist do not mostly camp here maybe due to lack of facilities. However we worked that to our advantage and took charge of the lodging like our own house. We cooked our food in the restaurant kitchen with the chefs help and took all liberties with sleeping arrangements likewise. Pangong has an eerie charm about itself. The feeling is entirely different from the one I experienced at Tsomoriri. Pangong with its silent waters, refractive colours, vibrant surroundings and lack of habitation immediately pushes you in a spiritual realm. Pangong waters are highly attractive and most of my friends could not resist the temptation to take a dip in them in spite of the refrigerant conditions that we were in.  Their exuberance broke the ageless silence of Pangong and somehow made us feel alien to her. Since it was the last day of our trip all of us made the maximum use of the opportunity to sit beside a rock and think about the unrealistic lives we live to seek material happiness and its high insignificance in perspective to the spiritual bliss that we were presently experiencing. Lost in our thoughts Pangong once again returned to her usual calm and serenity as if time stood still. The fading light compelled us to head back to our hotel although with high reluctance. Once we reached back, most of my friends crowded the kitchen to prepare Pav bhaji (with whatever vegetables we could gather). Contrary to our horrors the end product turned out to be edible enough to classify it as a treat.  After dinner we had a small chat session discussing our tour experiences before we finally hit the bed.

DAY 9
We rose up leisurely next morning around 8am as it was our last day of the trip. We were invited by the caretaker of our hotel to his nearby home for a cup of special tea called as "GurGur cha" which is an intrinsic part of Ladakhi culture and lives. The tea requires special instruments for preparation and the tradition is still very much alive in many households.

GuruGur cha preparation

The tea is prepared from a special kind of tea leaves commercially known as "Brick Tea”. The tea obtains its peculiar name due to its form which resembles a rock but can obtain shape and consistency by pressing very much alike tea leaves. Brick tea leaves are loosened and mixed with nearly half its volume of soda (called Phuli in Tibetan). The mixture is transferred to a kettle filled with cold water whose proportion varies as per individual choice. The kettle is heated over low flame and when the water is about to boil, the tea-soda mixture is constantly stirred about 5-6 minutes before removing the kettle of the flame. The tea mixture is filtered through a cloth and transferred to a round, wooden cylinder (called as Gurgur in Tibetan due to the gurgur like sound it produces on pounding, and hence the tea name) about three to four inches in diameter and two to three feet high. The remaining tea leaves are generally considered useless and discarded. The tea mixture is vigorously pounded or quelled in the wooden tub after which a large amount (nearly twice the quantity of brick tea) of clarified butter (ghee mostly from yak) is added along with some amount of salt is added to the tea mixture. During the entire process the pounding is continued. Finally the tea mixture is again transferred to a kettle, mixed with milk, heated, cooled and served.  Gurgur tea is generally taken with meat and pastry for dinner or supper. However consumption of Gurgur tea is not done during performance of religious ceremony.

After enjoying this salty but energizing tea we paid a small visit to our host’s fields. The fields were visited by various species of birds which caught my attention and I followed them with my camera. I was so engrossed and amazed at the beauty of the faunal variety that surrounded me that it ceased my realization that the time to leave was fast approaching. My thought process was soon broken by the sweet abuses of my friends who were pleading me to board the bus. At around 10 am we were on our way back to Leh. The route back was now familiar passing through amazing landscapes as we once again approached the might Chang La. We took a short break here before moving ahead towards Leh. On our way back we visited Thiksey monastery

Thiksey Gonpa (34°3'22"N   77°40'0"E)

Thiksey Gonpa, 18kms from Leh is the most beautiful of all monasteries in Ladakh. The gonpa belongs to the Gelukpa order and was first build at Stakmo by Sherab Zangpo of Stod. Later the nephew of Sherab Zangpo, Spon Paldan Sherab, founded the Thiksey Gonpa on a hill top to north of Indus river in 1430 AD. There are sacred shrines and many precious objects to be seen there. Eighty monks are in residence. The successive reincarnations of the Skyabsje Khanpo Rinpoche act as incumbents of the monastery. Sacred dances are held at the time of the Gustor ritual, which is performed every year from the 17th to 19th day of the 9th month of Tibetan Calendar. Although there was a very large temple built in ancient times at Thiksey by Rinchen Zangpo, the Translator, now it is in ruins. What remains of the building and walls can be seen at the site of the temple which was called Lakhang Nyerma and which was dedicated to the goddess Dorje Chenmo.

We were in for a spiritual treat when we visited Thiksey. There was an annual ritual in progress and the incantations filled the air with mysticism which took us in a state of euphoria. It was just impossible for any of us to get up from the ritual and explore other areas of the monastery. Since this was our last place to be visited on this tour we took entire liberty with time to explore, photograph and absorb every bit of this fascinating monastery which I personally regard as second best monastery I visited after Kye monastery at Spiti (Himachal Pradesh, India).

As we moved on from Thiksey towards our hotel at Leh, a sense of calm and satisfaction prevailed beneath all of us. The past 4 days from TsoMoriri to Thiksey were just amazing and fulfilled every bit of our mental and spiritual expectation we had from Ladakh. We reached Leh about 6.30 pm. We had a quick shower and made a visit to the Leh market to do some souvenir shopping. At about 8:30 we were at our dinner table discussing our past 8 days experiences after which we retired back to our own rooms to do final packing as we had to leave early morning for Mumbai. I crept in my bed and switched of the final lights at Ladakh with a sense of utmost satisfaction. Next morning as I looked over Ladakh from the window of my plane, the beautiful floating clouds over the snow capped mountains reminded me of all the fascinating experiences this trip had brought about. Once you experience happiness of the highest order it becomes really difficult to find peace in gains of the materialistic lives we live. This comparative view of nature versus society although shared by each of my friends, is very subjective to each of us. We enjoy the benefits of modern society in terms of easy access to food, water, entertainment, electricity and we are still not satisfied and selfishly yearn for more and more. A visit to extreme conditions of Ladakh is a true introspection of how granted we take our amenities and most of time treat them with disdain. Ladakh's  inhabitable conditions, extreme climates and a almost impregnable terrain makes you feel every bit of hardships experienced by a common Ladakhi to support basic life. The entire feeling can be summed up in words of a Ladakhi woman whom I met at TsoMoriri. She asked me "How do you find Ladakh" to which I replied "Enchanting, nothing less then heaven" to which she simply replied" For us it is nothing less than hell".

NOTE

All co-ordinate readings in the present article have been personally taken with a GPS instrument and cross checked with online satellite imagery services for accuracy. Similarly all altitude readings have been taken personally with altimeter equipment and cross checked with standard references

By: Dr. Sumit Kesarkar (Y. H. A. I., Goregaon Unit)
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